A family adventure in Nicaragua: beaches, volcanoes & colonial charm

Seeking a Christmas break from our jungle life in Costa Rica, we embarked on an unforgettable journey to Nicaragua—blending adventure, relaxation, and cultural discovery. Our itinerary was intentionally laid-back, allowing us to soak in the beauty of the country while spending quality time together. While Nicaragua has so much to offer, we tailored our trip to fit our family's needs, especially with young children. Some areas remain off-limits due to safety concerns, while others are better suited for future visits when our kids are older. The Pacific coast is a well-known surfing hotspot, with options for both beginners and seasoned surfers. However, Nicaragua isn't just about the waves—there’s a wealth of experiences beyond surfing, from colonial cities and volcanic landscapes to serene beaches and rich local culture.

Playa Maderas: Laid-Back Beach Vibes

Our first stop was Playa Maderas, a tranquil beach just 10 km north of San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua’s most famous surf town. San Juan del Sur is a lively mix of surf culture, fishing village charm, and bohemian energy. While it has a reputation for backpacker parties, we found the town’s colorful streets, boutique shops, and cozy cafés a delight to explore.

Where to eat in San Juan del Sur: 

  • French Boulangerie – A must-visit for fresh, authentic baguettes.
  • Toastadería – A tourist favorite, offering great lunch options.

In Playa Maderas, we rented a villa on the hillside, giving us stunning ocean views and direct beach access. The area is peaceful, surrounded by nature, with nothing to distract from the beauty of the coastline.

A short drive away, we discovered Machete Cafe, an incredible breakfast spot that also serves delicious Friday night pizza and cocktails. It also has a cute clothing shop and a small market for essentials.

Ometepe Island: A Volcanic Adventure

Next, we headed to Ometepe Island, an extraordinary destination on Lake Nicaragua, home to two majestic volcanoes and endless outdoor adventures.

Getting to Ometepe: 

Reaching the island is an adventure in itself! Ferries run every 30 minutes to an hour, with a 70-minute crossing. However, if you’re traveling with a car, pre-booking is essential—only 6–8 vehicles fit on each ferry, making last-minute spots nearly impossible. Since we hadn’t booked in advance, we left our car at the port and boarded as foot passengers.

⚠️ Seasick travelers, beware—the ride is notoriously choppy. Sitting on the upper deck and focusing on the horizon was our only saving grace!

Upon arrival, we rented quads to get around, which turned out to be the best decision ever. Not only did the kids love it, but it was also a fantastic way to explore the island.

Things to do in Ometepe: 

  • Kayaking on the river for a peaceful nature escape
  • Horseback riding through scenic trails
  • Hiking (best for families with older kids—volcano treks are intense!)
  • Visiting a chocolate factory
  • Exploring the beaches and spotting wildlife

Ometepe offers at least 3–4 days of activities, but keep in mind that accommodations and infrastructure are quite rustic—perfect for adventurers but not for those seeking luxury.

Where to eat in Ometepe: 

  • Café Campestre – Delicious homemade meals.
  • El Pital – A chocolate lover’s paradise, great for brunch!

Granada: A Colonial Gem

After the wild landscapes of Ometepe, we ventured to Granada, one of Nicaragua’s most picturesque colonial cities. Nestled on the shores of Lake Nicaragua, it’s a colorful, lively destination packed with history, culture, and adventure.

We started with a walking tour around the main square, cathedral, and charming streets. While the city is touristy, it is beautifully preserved and well worth exploring.

Where to stay in Granada 

Our top hotel recommendation is Hotel Corazón, a non-profit, education-focused boutique hotel with a meaningful mission. Not only was our stay comfortable, but we also loved supporting a project that gives back to the community.

Things to do in Granada 

  • Chocolate Workshop – A fun and interactive experience.
  • Masaya Market – Located 25 minutes outside the city, this is a local market (not a tourist trap!), where you’ll find everything from food and art to clothes and souvenirs. Expect a bit of chaos—it’s an authentic shopping experience!

Renting a car in Nicaragua

To truly explore Nicaragua, renting a car is highly recommended. You can pick one up at the border or at Managua Airport. A private driver is also an option, but having your own vehicle gives you the freedom to discover off-the-beaten-path locations at your own pace.

 

Nicaragua is a hidden gem—an off-the-radar destination that deserves more recognition. Its stunning landscapes, friendly locals, and affordable travel costs make it an incredible place to explore.

While the country has faced political challenges (2018) and COVID setbacks, tourism is slowly reviving, and there are countless undiscovered treasures waiting to be explored.

For those already visiting Costa Rica, Nicaragua makes for an excellent combination trip—offering a raw, untouched beauty that contrasts with Costa Rica’s well-trodden tourist paths.

Would we go back? Absolutely!

Bon Voyage,
Marta x

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Marta Mikolajczyk

Your Family Travel Designer

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